23.0 An Architect’s Pilgrimage to Ronchamp

Almost 30 years ago now as a young graduate Architect I discovered the glorious architecture of Rome during my grand tour.  My Lessons of Rome are summarized in an earlier article.

The following year “bitten by the bug of travel”, I had to go once again to discover the many wonders of architecture in Europe. 

During these travels in the summer of 1983, I covered many of the historic buildings and cities of Europe but only one destination was a real Architectural Pilgrimage!  It was a true pilgrimage for a number of reasons, first the locations was one not easily accessible and after taking a train to a small town I believe is called Belfort which had one stop in the morning going to the town and one stop in the evening leaving the town.  If I can remember correctly, it is about 20km from the station to the Chapel of Notre Dame Du Haute and I got there walking! 

Being on a student budget and having more time than money walking in the beautiful summer weather through the French country side seemed like the logical choice.  With a combination of hitch hiking and walking, the journey ended taking about 3 hours and the excitement slowly built up as we got nearer and could see the chapel on a hill in the distant landscape.   

Being an admirer of the Architect Le Corbusier throughout my years as a student (and still remain one today) this seemed like the ultimate sacrifice to study this master piece and I can clearly remember I was not let down upon arrival. 

Ronchamp - Sketch Book - Europe Travels 1983 - Bertram Wong (copyright)

So what is it about this building that makes it so inspiring?

1.   It sits alone in the landscape on a slight hill and the approach is directed by the mounding of the landscape to reveal the view to the building.

2.  The building itself has the feel of being monumental on one hand with its sweeping roof but is actually a modest size structure.

Ronchamp - Sketch Book - Europe Travels 1983 - Bertram Wong (copyright)

3.  It also has a sense of being timeless with the Cyclopean architecture.  And has the feel as if it were there for hundreds of years!  I guess for this reason I decided to use a thick pencil for recording my visit rather than the thin ink pen that dominate most of my other 100 pages of sketches from the trip.

4.  The building composition for all angels on the exterior can only be described as truly “Artistic”. 

Ronchamp - Sketch Book - Europe Travels 1983 - Bertram Wong (copyright)

5.  The Interior is the same architecture with gradually slopping floor of concrete with an an irregular grid of linear stone inlaid. 

Ronchamp - Sketch Book - Europe Travels 1983 - Bertram Wong (copyright)

6.  The light is dramatic through the thick walls and give an absolute spiritual feel whether you are religious or not!

Ronchamp - Sketch Book - Europe Travels 1983 - Bertram Wong (copyright)

7.  I remember there are a lot of interesting details like with all the Le Coubusier building I have visited, but this one the composition of forms as it is viewed in the changing light is by far the most memorable qualities and that’s how I recorded it in my sketches.

Ronchamp - Sketch Book - Europe Travels 1983 - Bertram Wong (copyright)

Throughout my career, I always refer back to such visits and try to remind myself what it should be like to be an Architect.   

Jiwa Studio
Singapore, March 2012